Self-guided Walking Tour of Senso-ji Temple
Senso-ji, located in Tokyo’s Asakusa district, is the city’s oldest and most famous Buddhist temple. Originally constructed in 628 AD, it has been destroyed and rebuilt several times due to fires, earthquakes, and bombing during World War II. The temple is a stunning blend of Buddhist and Shinto traditions and is visited by millions of people each year.
The temple was built to enshrine a small golden statue of Kannon (the Goddess of Mercy), which was found by two fishermen in the Sumida River near what is now Tokyo. They tried to return the statue to the river, but it kept returning to them, which was interpreted as a divine sign. As a result, the temple was established to honor Kannon. The statue is enshrined in the temple, but is not visible to the public.
The name “Senso” means “to save from suffering,” a reference to Kannon’s compassion, and the temple became a popular place of pilgrimage for those seeking mercy and blessings.
Here is a self-guided walking tour of the temple’s main attractions.
1. Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate)
Start your journey at Kaminarimon, the imposing outer gate leading to Senso-ji. It features a massive red lantern flanked by statues of Fūjin (God of Wind) and Raijin (God of Thunder). Fūjin is depicted holding large wind sacks, symbolizing the control of wind. Raijin wields drums that create thunder. His fierce appearance, adorned with lightning bolts, highlights his command over storms. Together, these deities serve as protectors of the temple, guarding it against evil forces and natural disasters.
History Note: Originally built at a different location in 941 by Japanese samurai and warlord Taira no Kinmasa, the gate was relocated here in 1635. Like the temple itself, the gate has been destroyed and rebuilt several times. The current structure dates back to a 1960 reconstruction funded by Konosuke Matsushita, the founder of Panasonic.
The gate is also known as the Thunder Gate because of the large red and black lantern that hangs from it. The lantern is painted to look like thunderclouds and lightning.
Note: Your first hint that you are approaching Thunder Gate will be the LONG line of people waiting to pose for pictures underneath the temple’s famous red lantern.
The Red Lantern
The massive red lantern on the Kaminarimon gate at Sensō-ji Temple is one of Tokyo's most iconic landmarks. The lantern's red color is associated with good fortune and protection from evil, a common theme in many parts of Japan. The Japanese characters "雷門" inscribed on the lantern say, “Thunder Gate.”
Beyond its religious significance, the lantern is also a masterpiece of craftsmanship. Standing at 3.9 meters tall and weighing about 700 kilograms, it is a striking representation of Japanese artistic tradition, made from bamboo and paper.
After you walk through the gate, you will be on…
2. Nakamise Shopping Street
Nakamise-dori, is a pedestrian-only shopping street filled with stalls selling traditional Japanese snacks, souvenirs, and crafts. It is one of the oldest shopping streets in Japan. The word “nakamese” means “the street of shops within the temple ground” and “dori” means “street.”
Fun Fact: Why is there a shopping street here? It seems strange.
Having a shopping street between the two gates of Sensō-ji Temple seems unusual at first, but it actually has deep historical, cultural, and practical significance that reflects the unique relationship between spirituality and commerce in Japan. Here's why the shopping street exists in this location:
1. Historical Development
Pilgrimage and Commerce: Historically, temples like Sensō-ji have always attracted large numbers of pilgrims. People visiting the temple for religious purposes often needed supplies for their journey, such as food, clothing, and religious items. This shopping street has served pilgrims since the 17th century. Over time, the area surrounding the temple became a place where shops would naturally grow to serve these needs.
Origin of Nakamise-dori: Nakamise-dori has existed in some form since the early Edo period (17th century). The street was initially a place where vendors sold offerings, religious items, and souvenirs to pilgrims visiting the temple. This tradition of combining commerce with spirituality was a natural development in the context of Japanese religious practices.
2. A Center of Worship and Everyday Life
·Integration of Spirituality and Daily Life: In Japan, there has long been a cultural acceptance of the blending of religious and everyday activities. Temples and shrines are not seen as isolated or purely sacred spaces; they are often integrated into the fabric of daily life. For centuries, Japanese culture has included rituals, festivals, and religious practices alongside the practical aspects of life like shopping, eating, and socializing. The street’s existence between the two gates symbolizes this harmonious connection between the spiritual and the material.
Merchandise and Religious Offerings: Many of the goods sold on Nakamise-dori are still related to religion and spirituality—including prayer beads, amulets, and traditional temple souvenirs. Many visitors purchase these items as part of their religious practice. In this way, the street still maintains a connection to the temple's sacred purpose, and the commercial activity is not in conflict with the spiritual nature of the temple.
3. Hozomon (Treasure Gate)
At the end of Nakamise Street, you’ll find the Hozomon, the temple’s inner gate. It is called “Treasure Gate” because it marks the entrance to the temple, where some treasures like sacred relics and important Buddhist scriptures (called sutras) are kept. The statue of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, is housed within the main temple hall). Originally built in 942, the current structure was rebuilt in 1964.
Here’s a detailed look at the creatures and deities depicted on the gate and where you can locate them:
1. Nio Guardians (Benevolent Kings)
Flanking the entrance of the Hozomon Gate are two massive statues of Nio guardians, also known as Agyo and Ungyo. These are fierce and muscular deities that serve to protect the temple and ward off evil spirits.
Agyo (Mouth Open): The open-mouthed Nio represents overt power and the beginning of life. His roar is said to scare away demons.
Ungyo (Mouth Closed): The closed-mouthed Nio symbolizes inner strength and the end of life.
Symbolism: Together, they embody the cycle of life and death and serve as protectors of Buddhist teachings.
2. Giant Waraji Sandals
After you walk through the gate, turn around to see the pair of enormous waraji (straw sandals) hanging on the gate.
Meaning: The waraji are offerings to the Nio guardians and symbolize their immense power, as only beings of great strength could wear such massive sandals. They also act as protective charms, keeping evil spirits away from the temple.
4. Main Hall (Hondō)
The Main Hall is the spiritual heart of Senso-ji, housing the hidden statue of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy.
Tip: Before entering, cleanse your hands and mouth at the Chōzuya purification fountain and waft incense smoke from the Jokoro over yourself for blessings.
5. Five-Story Pagoda
Next to the Main Hall stands the beautiful Five-Story Pagoda, representing the five elements: earth, water, fire, wind, and void. The pagoda is stunningly illuminated at night.
6. Asakusa Shrine (Sanja-sama)
Located near the Main Hall, Asakusa Shrine honors the three men who founded Senso-ji. It’s a prime example of Japan’s harmonious blend of Shinto and Buddhist traditions. (Buddhist places of worship are called temples and Shinto places of worship are called shrines.)
History Note: The shrine is original. Built in 1649, the shrine survived the bombings of World War II.
7. Temple Grounds and Gardens
Explore the serene temple grounds, which feature smaller statues, lanterns, and gardens.
Highlight: Look for the statue of Hotei, one of the Seven Lucky Gods, near the Main Hall. Rubbing his belly is believed to bring happiness and good fortune.
If this is the beginning of your day, go back to our main Tokyo post, put Ueno Park in your GPS, and start walking over there. (Or take the train if you don’t want to walk.) If this is towards the end of your day, take a relaxing stroll along the nearby Sumida River. From here, enjoy a view of the modern Tokyo Skytree, offering a striking contrast to the historic temple.